Not even a
two-hour delay due to runway ice could have curbed my excitement for a week with my family in Queenstown. The prospect of snow-capped mountains, my very
first ‘Fergburger’ and a seven course winery lunch was my kind of Monday
morning mantra. The picturesque flight complete with clear blue skies and
mountains that glistened in the morning sun truly took my breath away – whilst
restoring my appetite to full capacity.
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Day 1. It all began in the crisp air of
Arrowtown, with an Allpress coffee from Provisions (unfortunately their famous
Sticky Buns had sold out!), a wander (READ: ice skate) through the quaint
little town made complete with merino sock purchase and fudge tasting at The
Remarkables Sweet Shop. Down a near-deserted alleyway and up the stairwell we
were welcomed by the cosy, hip and hustling atmosphere of The Chop Shop Food Merchants.
Following a classic ‘dad joke’ about
the lack of chops, the rest of the menu promised some seriously interesting
feasting. Confit rabbit, spiced roasted chestnuts and fried sage fettuccini
complete with lemon labneh and French sorrel. Dreamy, creamy and devoured with
forkfuls flying across the table. Their infamous ‘Elvis’ Corn Fritters with
chilli caramel, coriander salad and a perfectly poached egg would have done the
rock star proud. They tried to take it off the menu once before, but an up roar
from locals meant it was there to stay. A few glasses of pinot gris, smoked
pork hock hash and a savoury donut meant I didn’t even miss the Turkish eggs
(another signature dish). Who am I kidding, I’m already planning my
return.
A wander around Lakes Hayes to digest
lunch geared us up for the carb-fest that awaited, at The Cow - my Dad’s
favourite restaurant in the world. This long-standing historic pub is hidden
down Cow Lane, and serves up generous portions of ‘Pizza and Spaghetti’ to
hungry families and hardcore ski-bunnies after a big day on the slopes. But the
true gem in this place is their ‘Homemade Bread’ a warm wholemeal loaf
slathered in garlic and herbs, served with a slab of softened butter and a
giant bread knife so you can DIY! With the fireplace roaring we gorged on
pizzas loaded with prawns, salami, tomatoes, olives and extra anchovies. Along
with bowls of spaghetti where the seafood swam amongst the creamy white wine
sauce and where chicken livers and mushrooms made the best of friends. An
evening of comfort food and conversation that lead to full bellies and even
fuller hearts.
Day 2. Waking up to a -7 degree morning
was an experience in itself, but what it lacked in warmth it made up for in
beauty. We warmed our cockles at the stunning and newly renovated Sherwood Hotel,
restoring last night's gluttony with a Dynamic Vinyasa Yoga class in their very
own (heated) studio. Followed by a bowl of hearty porridge in their chic
refurbished eatery. Poached tamarillos and chia-cacao-nut crumble sprinkled on
creamy oats was a hug in a bowl, washed down by coffee with a view. We heard a
whisper that they are offering a range of yoga/health retreats - alongside food
foraged straight from their kitchen garden. Guess I’ll be seeing you there.
A wander back along Lake Wakatipu in
the brisk air awakened our zen senses, but nothing could prepare us for the
gastronomic sensation that awaited at Amisfield. A Tuesday afternoon and this
Winery/Bistro was full to the brim, and from the first bite, it was clear to
see why. Our Trust the Chef menu was exceptional. From the award-winning wines,
duck parfait on wafer-thin seed crackers and wild rabbit rillete to the
mushroom truffle risotto. Lamb rump with roasted garlic puree, black fermented
garlic and fried sage leaves blew us away, combined perfectly with two-way
kumara, black truffle butter and more of those crispy sage sensations. Did I
mention the wine. Two words. Pinot Noir.
Dessert. A chocolate fondant, as it
should be, rich, decadent and complete with oozing molten centre. Their take on
a ‘Walnut Apple Crumble’ remains firmly engraved in my mind - beautifully
plated with cinnamon cream, beetroot poached apple, candied walnut powder and
balsamic reduction. Truly inspiring fare. It felt like a dream.
Not wanting the dream to end we finished
the evening with a sophisticated lakeside drink at the historic Eichardt’s Private
Hotel and Bar. Nibbling on squid ink battered calamari with lemon
aioli and fries, cause clearly we were starving. Less than 48 hours and
Queenstown had me hooked…
TBC... x
